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'Fairy sister' sets sights on reviving the hanfu
About two years ago, Long Jiayan accidentally watched a video about hanfu, or Han clothing, on a micro blog in China. She didn't expect that it would inspire her life's passion to promote Han clothing and its history. Hanfu is the traditional dress of the ethnic Han people. However, few Han people wear it daily in present-day China. It can be seen occasionally in festivals, coming-of-age and religious ceremonies conducted by Taoist, Confucian and Buddhist monks. It is often seen, however, in Chinese television serials and movies. "I absolutely fell in love with hanfu, including all of its connotations and cultural implications after watching the video," says the 24-year-old in Changsha, Hunan province. Long was so crazy about hanfu that she, who never learned sewing before, started to make an outfit only four days after she watched the video. "I searched for information about how to make hanfu and felt after my reading that it was not that difficult, so I just set to work on it," she recalls. Long's baby was just 7 months old, so she could only make the clothes when the baby slept or when it was being cared by its grandmother. But Long's idea didn't get any support from her family. "My mother-in-law said I had a 'mental disorder' and it was unnecessary and boring to do that," she says. Long finished her first hanfu in only three days, even though she didn't have a sewing machine, and she wore it immediately. "Honestly, I don't know how I managed to keep that mental state then. I was fully at ease, though I had expected that people would look at me strangely," Long says. Now Long wears hanfu at least half the time. Sometimes she also chooses to wear some modern items to go with her hanfu. "When I wear hanfu on the street, some people even ask if I'm doing cosplay or wearing a costume rented from a photographic studio," she says. "But I was quite happy to hear that some children called me fairy sister," she says. One month later after she made the first hanfu, she bought a sewing machine for 800 yuan ($129). "I'm the type of person who takes action. I spent all of my pocket money on the sewing machine and the cloth," Long says. Now Long has her workshop and has made several hundred hanfu, but learning how to stitch was not easy. "What I can do is to turn to the pictures about hanfu and search for instructions some people post on the Internet. I bought some cheap cloth and tried to make hanfu with that," she says. Long has so far concentrated on the clothing's cut and form. "I plan to do myself print, dye and embroider on the clothes that I make. But that requires more effort as traditionally pictures are used on hanfu and some pictures cannot be used on some types of fabric," she says. In June last year, Long launched her online store. Many people have come to her workshop, tried her hanfu and taken pictures, but sales are low. Long says she has been in debt of more than 10,000 yuan. Her suits mostly cost 300-400 yuan. "But many people still think they are expensive," Long says. Sometimes, she says, she has to spend more than one month browsing hundreds of webpages and looking into thousands of cloth types to find what she wants. Long isn't alone in her dream to rejuvenate traditional Chinese culture through hanfu. At a festival where most people wore hanfu, she met Chen Jiaxin, who has launched various traditional ceremonies. The two are now cooperating. "Chen's activities need a lot of hanfu. I offer them the costumes they need so that they can make use of them to promote traditional culture," Long says. |
據(jù)《中國(guó)日?qǐng)?bào)》報(bào)道,約兩年前,龍佳言偶然在中國(guó)的微博上看到關(guān)于漢服,或稱(chēng)為漢衣冠的視頻。她并未預(yù)料到這會(huì)激發(fā)她的生活熱情,去發(fā)揚(yáng)漢服及其歷史。 漢服是漢族人民的傳統(tǒng)服飾。然而,在當(dāng)代中國(guó),鮮有漢人會(huì)每天穿它。偶爾可在由道教、儒教和佛教僧侶組織的節(jié)日、成人禮和宗教活動(dòng)中看到。 但在中國(guó)電視連續(xù)劇和電影中,可經(jīng)常看到。 在看完視頻后,我完全愛(ài)上了漢服,包括它的一切內(nèi)涵和文化寓意,”來(lái)自湖南長(zhǎng)沙的24歲女子稱(chēng)。 龍佳言對(duì)漢服非常癡迷,因此,從未學(xué)過(guò)裁縫的她,在看完視頻的四天后就開(kāi)始制作漢服。 “我搜索了關(guān)于如何做漢服的信息,讀完后發(fā)現(xiàn)并不是那么難,于是我就開(kāi)始制作漢服了,”她回憶道。 龍佳言的寶寶僅7個(gè)月大,因此,她只能在寶寶睡覺(jué)或在外婆照看時(shí)做衣服。 但是龍佳言的想法未得到家人的任何支持。她說(shuō):“我婆婆說(shuō)我‘精神失常’,沒(méi)必要做,而且很枯燥,” 雖然沒(méi)有縫紉機(jī),但是龍佳言僅在三天內(nèi)就完成了她的第一套漢服,她立刻就穿上了。 龍佳言說(shuō):“說(shuō)實(shí)話,我不知道當(dāng)時(shí)是如何設(shè)法保持那種精神狀態(tài)的。我完全放松,盡管我想過(guò)人們會(huì)用奇怪的眼神看我。” 現(xiàn)在,龍佳言至少一半的時(shí)間都穿漢服。有時(shí)她也選戴一些現(xiàn)代元素的飾物和她的漢服搭配。 她說(shuō):“當(dāng)我穿著漢服上街時(shí),一些人甚至問(wèn)我是不是在cosplay,或者穿的是從影城租來(lái)的衣服。” “但我很高興一些小孩叫我神仙姐姐,”她說(shuō)道。 在她做完第一套漢服的一個(gè)月后,她花800元買(mǎi)了一臺(tái)縫紉機(jī)。 龍佳言說(shuō):“我是那種行動(dòng)派的人。我把所有零用錢(qián)都花在縫紉機(jī)和布料上。” 現(xiàn)在龍佳言有了自己的工作室,她已經(jīng)做了幾百套漢服,但學(xué)習(xí)縫紉并不容易。 她說(shuō):“我能做的就是找關(guān)于漢服的圖片,在網(wǎng)上搜索一些人發(fā)布的說(shuō)明。我買(mǎi)了一些便宜的布料,嘗試用它做漢服。” 龍佳言到目前為止一直集中在服裝的剪裁和樣式上。她說(shuō):“我打算在我做的衣服上自己印花樣、染色和刺繡。但那和漢服上用傳統(tǒng)圖案相比更費(fèi)精力,一些圖案不能用在某些類(lèi)型的布料上。” 去年6月,龍佳言注冊(cè)了網(wǎng)上店鋪。很多人去她的工作室試穿漢服、拍照,但是銷(xiāo)量很低。 龍佳言說(shuō)她已經(jīng)欠債超過(guò)1萬(wàn)元了。她的一套衣服大多是花費(fèi)300-400元。“但很多人仍覺(jué)得那很貴,”龍佳言說(shuō)道。 她說(shuō),有時(shí)候她不得不花一個(gè)多月的時(shí)間瀏覽數(shù)百個(gè)網(wǎng)頁(yè),尋找成千上萬(wàn)個(gè)布種才能找到自己想要的。 龍佳言在她用漢服復(fù)興傳統(tǒng)中國(guó)文化的路上并不孤獨(dú)。在一個(gè)大多數(shù)人穿漢服的節(jié)日里,她遇到了發(fā)起過(guò)各種傳統(tǒng)儀式的陳嘉欣。 這二位現(xiàn)在正在合作。 龍佳言說(shuō):“陳嘉欣的活動(dòng)需要大量的漢服,我為他們提供所需服裝,以便他們可以利用服裝來(lái)促進(jìn)傳統(tǒng)文化。” (譯者 panda123 編輯 丹妮) 掃一掃,關(guān)注微博微信
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